The Future of Balenciaga Is on the Line (Published 2023) (2024)

Style|The Future of Balenciaga Is on the Line

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/02/08/style/fashion-week-preview-balenciaga-burberry.html

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And everything else you need to know to hold forth on fashion month at a co*cktail party.

The Future of Balenciaga Is on the Line (Published 2023) (1)

Get ready. Your feeds are about to be crammed full of color, sparkle, celebrities and opinion. Fashion month is upon us: hundreds of shows in four cities vying not just for your wardrobes, but for your eyeballs and even sense of outrage.

Who will be bidding for Oscar red carpet glory? Can anyone top the Schiaparelli lion head? Will there be any scandals and controversies? Here’s what you need to know

It’s make or break time for Balenciaga.

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That might seem like hyperbole, but it is not. This is the single most fraught show of the season. Maybe of any season. As you may recall, Balenciaga — regularly called the hottest brand of the last five years in any fashion ranking thanks to the ability of Demna, its designer, to hold a finger up to the cultural winds and capture them in clothes and context — had a spectacular fall from grace last fall.

It started in October when Ye, or the artist formerly known as Kanye West, opened the Balenciaga “mud” show, only to follow up with his own Yeezy show to which he wore a White Lives Matter T-shirt, which presaged a host of antisemitic and anti-Black comments. Slow to distance themselves from the rapper, Balenciaga then went live with a holiday ad campaign featuring teddy bear handbags in B.D.S.M. gear held by children, followed by another campaign that contained papers related to a U.S. Supreme Court child p*rnography case tucked in a pile.

A public outcry ensued, with Balenciaga accused of promoting pedophilia, boycotted and otherwise canceled. Apologies, when they finally came (after an attempt to blame a set design team), were halfhearted. Assumptions were that heads would have to roll, but both Demna and Cédric Charbit, the chief executive, remained in place. Holiday sales, especially in the United States market, have, by all accounts, been dismal. And the Lyst shopping platform reported that in the last quarter of 2022, Balenciaga fell out of its ranking of the top 10 most searched brands for the first time since the index was created in 2018.

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The Future of Balenciaga Is on the Line (Published 2023) (2024)

FAQs

How is Balenciaga doing after the scandal? ›

Balenciaga is counting primarily on its A-list influencers to bring it back from the dead because the fashion it showed probably won't do it. Its latest show was more an homage to things we've seen before rather than brand-new, original-inspired designs.

Are people still buying Balenciaga? ›

Shoppers aren't splurging on Gucci bags or Balenciaga shoes like they used to, and the "roaring 20s" of the post-COVID boom might be over. Signs of slowdown in the luxury industry began with easing sales reported at LVMH, the parent company of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.

Will Balenciaga come back? ›

The Start of a Comeback

Fast forward to March 2023, and signs of a comeback for Balenciaga and its creative director Demna – who managed to remain in his role amid the fallout, as did CEO Cédric Charbit – seemed to be quietly coming about.

What is the Balenciaga marketing strategy 2023? ›

Balenciaga has launched the all-new “It's Different” Fall/Winter 2023 campaign, celebrating all of the signature shapes in its ever-evolving design house with a tongue-in-cheek approach that mirrors the brand's new social media strategy.

Will Balenciaga survive the scandal? ›

They have lately managed the rarest of accomplishments, emerging from near cancellation a year ago, not unscathed by the scandal that followed a misguided ad campaign, but successful in having saved the brand from the brink while keeping their jobs.

Has Balenciaga lost sales? ›

Kidman, who walked in the house's well-received 2022 couture show, was also named an ambassador this past weekend. Still, the third-quarter report for Kering, the conglomerate that owns Balenciaga, said that sales of “Other Luxury,” which includes Balenciaga, were down 15 percent.

Why don't people like Balenciaga anymore? ›

The backlash against the images was swift, with the hashtag #cancelBalenciaga trending across Twitter and TikTok and many accusing the brand and its creative director, Demna, of condoning pedophilia and child exploitation.

Why are celebrities getting rid of Balenciaga? ›

The tension surrounding Balenciaga unfolded in November 2022 after it released a "Gift Collection" holiday campaign on social media. The advertisem*nt featured young children holding teddy bears outfitted with bondage gear.

How is Balenciaga doing now? ›

Key players and celebrity supporters helped Balenciaga pull off a near complete renaissance from the ashes of scandal. It looks like Balenciaga's crisis strategy team has pulled off a near complete resurrection of the brand from the ashes of scandal.

Who owns Balenciaga? ›

Kering (French: [kɛːʁiŋ]) is a French-based multinational corporation specializing in luxury goods. It owns the brands Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Creed and Alexander McQueen.

When did Balenciaga shut down? ›

The closure of Balenciaga's fashion house in 1968, and his death four years later, marked the end of an era. Yet the master's innovative pattern cutting, use of new materials and bold architectural shapes have remained greatly influential.

Why did Balenciaga retire? ›

Even more important, however, were changes to the fashion industry itself. Cristóbal Balenciaga, the reigning leader of Paris couture, closed his house in 1968, lamenting that it had become impossible to design true couture. Although he was clearly frustrated, Balenciaga's work from the 1960s is exceptional.

Has Balenciaga profits dropped? ›

Market Slowdown. Sales at Yves Saint Laurent and Kering's Other Houses division — which includes Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen — both fell by 6 percent, confirming that none of the group's brands has been exempt from a broader slowdown in the luxury market, particularly among aspirational clients.

Who owns Balenciaga 2023? ›

Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière. In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973.

Who is Balenciaga's target audience? ›

In all measured dimensions, the brand scores best among Generation Z, be it brand awareness, popularity, ownership, brand loyalty or media buzz. Following Genz Z in all brand KPIs for Balenciaga are Millennials, the second youngest generation in the survey.

Did Balenciaga lose sales after the scandal? ›

Balenciaga Is Starting Over. Balenciaga, once the hottest fashion brand in the world, became a four-letter word by December 2022. Wracked by scandal, Balenciaga's sales dipped and stores were vandalized as it was toppled mightily from its previously unshakeable throne.

Did Balenciaga sales drop after the scandal? ›

Cristóbal left Balenciaga in 1968 but Demna's Balenciaga couldn't afford to be quiet for ever. It's still a business, and this is the brand's first collection since November's controversial advertising campaign that saw sales drop dramatically, where children were photographed holding teddy bears in bondage gear.

Who is responsible for the Balenciaga scandal? ›

Shortly after, Balenciaga sent out a statement from CEO Cédric Charbit, who took full responsibility for the controversy.

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